Southern Norway in the Fall: Fjords, Fishing Towns and Oslo’s Rich History

There is something special about Norway in the fall. The summer crowds have thinned, the air is crisp and cool, and the whole country feels a little quieter and more your own. I just returned from a trip to southern Norway, where I spent time in Stavanger and Oslo, and I am already planning how to get back.

Stavanger: Fishing Town and Fjords

Stavanger is the kind of place that wins you over quickly. It is a charming "town" with a working harbor and rows of white wooden houses in Old Stavanger. While the primary roots of this city are fishing and canning, today it is known primarily as Norway's oil and energy capital. It is the third largest city and fourth most populous in Norway, but you would never know it by the feel of the area. When in city center, you very much feel as if you are in a small town. The waterfront is lined with cafes, restaurants and shops, and the center is compact enough to explore on foot. I loved wandering the cobbled lanes of Old Stavanger and visiting the Stavanger Cathedral, built in 1125.

If time permits, take a stroll down Øvre Holmegate, known as the Colourful Street for its brightly painted buildings. I, unfortunately, did not have time to get there since we were visiting by cruise ship and booked an excursion to take a rib boat through the fjords. That excursion was well worth it if you have never been to Norway; and I have no regrets!

Lysefjord by RIB Boat

The highlight of my time in Stavanger was a RIB boat ride through Lysefjord. It was chilly out on the water, but it was also exhilarating and easily one of the most beautiful things I have experienced.

Lysefjord stretches about 26 miles, with steep rock walls rising straight out of the water. It is deep, too, dropping more than 1,300 feet in places. The water is nearly as deep as the mountains are high. Waterfalls spill down the cliffs, and the whole place feels wild and untouched. There are no roads along the fjord because the sides are simply too steep, which makes a boat the best way to see it up close.

The best known landmark here is Pulpit Rock, or Preikestolen, a flat-topped cliff that rises about 1,982 feet above the fjord. Many travelers hike to the top for the view. I enjoyed seeing it from the water instead. The hike, itself, is known to be of moderate difficulty, so decide if you are physically able to complete it before booking your tour.

Oslo: Culture & History Abound

From Stavanger, I continued on to Oslo, where I overnighted aboard my cruise ship. Having an overnight in port gave me extra time, and Oslo made good use of it!

I started at the Munch Museum, a modern building on the waterfront that holds a huge collection of works by Edvard Munch, including The Scream. The museum houses 8 finished versions of this famous work, displaying 3 to the public. They are displayed in rotation, changing every 30 minutes to protect the pieces from too much light exposure. The fourth hand-created version can be seen at the National Museum of Norway (also in Oslo). Seeing one of the most famous images in the art world in person is a thrill, and I loved seeing his other works to get a fuller picture of the artist.

Next was Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle overlooking the harbor. Construction began in the late 1290s under King Haakon V to protect the city. It has withstood many sieges over the centuries. In the early 1600s, King Christian IV transformed it into a Renaissance castle and residence. Today the grounds are lovely for a walk with views over the water, as it sits right on Oslofjord. The fortress includes a royal mausoleum and museums on Norway’s military history. This is still an active structure and is currently serving as the temporary office of the prime minister of Norway. I did see military patrolling, but for the most part you just feel like you are walking through a time portal to medieval ages. The history just seems to scream to you as you walk the cobbled paths. One fun fact that will excite the littles that you bring to Oslo is that Akershus Fortress is the primary inspiration for the exterior design and architecture of the royal castle in Disney's Frozen.

My last stop was Oslo City Hall, the large red brick building on the harbor. It is free to visit, and the walls inside are covered in murals that tell the story of Norwegian history and life. City Hall is also where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every December 10. The other Nobel prizes are presented in Stockholm, but the Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo by the Norwegian Nobel Committee, and the ceremony has taken place in City Hall since 1990. Standing in the hall where Nobel laureates receive their medals gave me goosebumps!

More to Do in Oslo

Oslo has so much culture and history that one visit is not nearly enough. If you have more time, you can walk up the sloping roof of the Oslo Opera House for views over the city and fjord, or explore Vigeland Sculpture Park and its hundreds of sculptures. The Fram Museum tells the story of Norway’s polar exploration, and the Nobel Peace Center sits right next to City Hall. You can also ride up to Holmenkollen for a look at the famous ski jump, take a ferry out to one of the islands in the Oslofjord, or wander the waterfront at Aker Brygge for dining and shopping.

A Few Tips Before You Go

Getting around Norway is easy. Most of the locals you will meet speak English, and the country is almost entirely cashless, so you can leave the Norwegian krone at home and use a card or your phone instead. Norway is pricey, so it is smart to plan your budget in advance. The good news is that some of the best experiences, like wandering a harbor town or taking in views of the fjord are free. If you do choose to visit the museums or take a tour on the fjord, those core memories will be worth every penny.

Just a Small Sampling

This trip was only a small taste of what Norway has to offer. Next time, I hope to head north to Tromso and to Bergen on the west coast. And I would love the chance to cross into the Arctic Circle. Time did not permit on this voyage, but that's one of the best parts of travel: it whets your appetite to discover more.

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